Monday, December 31, 2018

Team Associated B64D V2 steering

Since the introduction of Team Associated's newest four wheel drive buggy, the B64 and B64D, there has been an update to the steering.

According to Associated's brochure, the new V2 Steering Rack has "optimized Ackermann and steering rate for a more consistent steering feel through the entire corner."  What it all means is that you now have the ability to tune the steering rate for the track conditions without adversely affecting your Toe settings.




Associated also updated the B64 steering arms to a V2 steering arm to compliment the new steering rack.




Associated recommends the Graphite Adjustable Bellcrank Input Arm as well as a 20mm long servo horn.



To make this updated to your B64 or B64D you need the following parts:
Graphite Adjustable Bellcrank Input Arm
V2 Steering Rack
V2 Steering Arm
20mm long servo with 25t spline
or
20mm long servo with 23t spline

The spline count on the servo horn depends on your steering servo's output gear spline count.  Most servos are 25 tooth, but there are some popular brands that still make their servos with 23 tooth output splines.

Since the input arm and steering arms are carbon, I should prep them before I install them.  Tony Phalen over at CompetitionX has a great video on how to do this properly.

I've also decided to add some bling to my B64D with Revolution Design's Aluminum Steering Bellcrank Set #RDRP0401-BLU.  It does stiffen up the steering, but also puts more stress on all the connected pieces.  This is especially true if you're a hack driver like I am.  All the cartwheels are going to tweak something. . .


Once I had the whole steering system installed I had to add four 2mm ball-stud spacers to the four screws that secure the front chassis brace.  As well, because I added 2mm, I had to change the screws from M3x8mm flat head and button head to M3x10mm flat head screws and M3x10mm button head screws to still get the proper amount of thread insertion.  This helped the chassis brace clear the steering linkage.


Another useful video is how to set the steering servo by Jason at Short Course World.  This will help you get a proper zero point from which you can fine tune the trim and the buggy goes straight.

My final tip is Blue Loctite.  I use it on all the screws that thread into metal threads as well as any nuts.  I personally like Loctite 248 because it comes as a stick versus the fluid kind. 

Have fun and keep it rubber side down!

Sunday, November 11, 2018

Team Associated B64D conversion


One of my many hobbies is remote control cars, or RC cars.  I have a Team Associated B64D in my stable of cars at the moment and I really like it.  It is a four wheel drive (4wd) buggy for off-road racing.  The "D" in B64D is for dirt.  Associated has since discontinued the B64D specifically, but they still make a Club Racer version and a Carpet version

The carpet version is called the B64.  There are subtle differences between the B64D and B64.  Either one can be converted to the other.  Associated offers a guide for converting the B64 into the B64D, click here for the link to the PDF.   Team Associate also has a nice comparison chart for all three versions, click here for the link to the PDF.  In my case, I have to convert mine from a B64D to a B64.

I'm going to follow Brent Thielke's Vegas set-up for my conversion.  I could also use the B64 stock manual to verify all my pieces and parts.

I am going to discuss the drive train differences between the B64D and B64 first.

The first piece I'll change is the three differentials found in the B64D to the two differentials and a clutch found in the B64.  The B64 has a center slipper clutch assembly instead of the center differential.  Since I'm making these changes as an upgrade, I am going to purchase the Schelle Racing Nova Slipper Conversion.  This kit from Schelle Racing has the clutch as well as center drive shafts needed to run a slipper clutch in my B64D.  The Nova Clutch has a smaller amount of rotating mass than the stock Associated clutch.  This helps the engine spool up faster, which is great for small, tight tracks.

With the front and rear differentials, I am going to purchase completely new ones.  This is unnecessary because I could just clean the current differential fluid out of my existing differentials and refill them with a different viscosity fluid for carpet.  But, by having completely separate diffs I can mark on them what fluid is in them and swap out as needed.  I run 10,000 cst fluid in my dirt diffs.  I plan on running 15,000 cst fluid in my carpet diffs.

The other difference in the differentials is that mine have the plastic gears.  I run the stock 13.5 4wd class and the plastic internal diff gears are lighter than the metal ones.  This helps the differentials rotate faster and lightens the car up a bit.  Carpet racing is high traction, so the metal internal gears are a must-have for durability reasons.

That's it for drive train differences.  The next area to change is the suspension.  There are a lot of subtle differences between the B64D and B64 in this area.

The first piece of the suspension that I'm going to change is the shock fluid.  The shock fluid is used to control the compression part of the shock absorption.  I run 35wt in the front and 30wt in the rear for my dirt off-road setup.  A typical carpet setup has even heavier weight up front, typically 37.5wt.  Brent's set-up has 37.5wt in both front and rear.  He tunes his compression by varying the piston hole sizes.  I think I might try the factory set-up in this case, which can be found on the third to last page in the stock manual.  The stock fluid set-up is for 37.5wt in the front and 30wt in the rear with 1.6mm holes up front and 1.7mm holes in the rear (I have these piston sizes in my shocks already).

Another part of the shocks is the springs.  The springs control the rebound of the suspension system.  The springs are there to return the shock to it's full extension.  Brent's set-up calls for Associated Factory Team Purple springs (4.20 lbs per inch) in the front and Associated Factory Team Gray springs (2.20 lbs per inch) in the rear.

The suspension also includes the front and rear sway-bars (or anti-sway-bars actually).  The ones needed for carpet racing are stiffer than the ones used for dirt racing (are you noticing a theme yet?).  Since I'm doing this as an upgrade, I am going to have to buy the Associated Firm Front Sway-Bar Kit to get the orange one for Brent's set-up.  I will also have to purchase the Associated Rear Sway-Bar Kit to get the orange one for Brent's set-up.

I'm kind of a hack when it comes to driving.  Brent likes to use the hard arms in his set-up.  However, I am going to stick with the stock arms for my set-up.  They'll give more before breaking when my car goes cartwheeling across the track.  Which it does more than I'd like to admit.

That's it for the suspension pieces.  The steering is the final piece that needs to change between the two buggies.

For steering purposes the caster blocks are different between the two buggies.  The B64D uses a 10 degree caster block, where the B64 uses a 7 degree caster block.  The lower angle makes the car a lot quicker to respond to steering inputs.

Those are all the pieces needed to convert a B64D to a B64, as far as the kit is concerned.

Of course, there are still more parts to get.  Carpet racing requires a different set of tires than dirt racing.  It is always best to check with your local track and see what they recommend.  As well, talk to the fast guys and see what they're using.  I typically run Proline Hole Shots front and rear at my dirt track.  For carpet racing, something like Proline's Pin Points for the rear and Prisms for the front are what is needed.  JConcepts are always a great choice too.  Brent's set-up uses JConcepts Pin Downs in the rear and Swaggers in the front.  I know that Schumacher makes a bunch of carpet specific treads and compounds for both the front and rear.  As well, Raw Speed is getting into the carpet tire game with the Rug Burn rear tire and the Incisor 2wd front tire at the time of this posting.

To sum this article up, here is the list of parts needed:
Associated B64 Slipper Kit
Associated Center Dog Bones for slipper clutch
or
Schelle Racing Nova Slipper Conversion takes the place of both pieces above

Associated B64 Gear Diff Kit for front or rear differentials
Associated 15,000 cst differential fluid
Associated B64 Anti-roll Bar Set Front, Firm
Associated B64 Anti-roll Bar Set Rear
Associated 37.5wt shock fluid
Associated Factory Team Purple Front Springs
Associated Factory Team Gray Rear Springs
Associated 7 degree Caster Blocks

Don't forget the rims, tires, and your favorite foam inserts.  Have fun and keep it rubber side down!