The TRX-4 Sport kit comes with everything except electronics. What I really love is the roll-cage with the all the scale accessories. Even better, the scale accessories are bolted on. So, no need to worry about them popping off during a wreck on the trail.
The instructions were absolutely awesome. Full color, 1:1 screw sizes for the hardware needed on each page, tons of pictures, it really was an excellent instruction booklet.
For the electronics, I saved my Savox SW-1210SG servo from an Axial SCX10 I used to have. I purchased a Hobbywing 880 Duo brushed electronic speed control. I went with the Duo because it was cheap. I don't plan on ever running two motors since the TRX-4 isn't built that way. To protect the ESC from shorting out, I put some dielectric grease in to the unused motor leads. For the motor, I chose a RC4WD 20-turn brushed motor. Brushed motors are "water-proof" simply because water doesn't effect their performance, even when fully submerged. Of course, they're made with steel and steel rusts, so a give it a good wash-down after playing in the water with an RC specific motor spray of your choice. I recommend an RC version because they tend to be safe on all the plastic bits found on and in RC cars. The best policy is to remove the motor and spray it separately from anything else. Finally, to control it all, I use a Sanwa (formerly Airtronics) MT-44 controller and a Sanwa RX-481 waterproof receiver.
There is a full aftermarket following for the Traxxas TRX-4 crawler. Your pocket book is what limits the amount of aftermarket parts you purchase for your TRX-4.
The only upgrade I'm making at the start is an aluminum motor mount.
The kit comes with full set of steel suspension links, full metal gears in the transmission as well as the axle portal gearboxes, full ball bearings, aluminum threaded-body shocks, and a full set of aluminum 12mm hexes to mount your wheels to.
The body comes pre-cut and ready for paint. I like the blue Sport RTR version of the TRX-4, so I painted mine blue too. I totally forgot to put the provided window masks on before painting! DOH! Still, it came out looking really sharp.
I used a trick for painting the fenders black. Normally, you paint the interior of a lexan body. That's what I did for the blue. For the black fenders, I used my X-Acto Knife to carefully cut and remove the over-spray film on the outside of the body only for the fenders and the truck bed itself. Then I went nuts with the black paint. When I finally removed the over-spray film it looks all nice and exact.
The rest of the truck is just awesome. I'm really looking forward to getting this thing out and actually crawling with it.
Until then, keep it rubber side down!
GOOD
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